If you’re going to take cuttings from an azalea (Rhododendron spp.) plant, there’s only one thing to keep in mind. Cuttings from deciduous native azalea, which loses their leaves in the fall, or evergreen species native to Japan, require different propagation methods. Depending on the variety, azaleas can be grown in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 9.
Tip
The evergreen azalea (Rhododendron Indicum) grows in USDA zones 7 through 8 and has a height and width of three feet. For example, in USDA zones 5 through 8, you can find the 6 to 5-foot-tall and 5-foot-wide deciduous azalea known as ‘My Mary.’
Disparities in Wave Propagation
From June to September, evergreen azalea cuttings are easier to root than deciduous varieties. Taking cuttings from deciduous azaleas in mid-May, when the wood is still green and soft, is the best time to get them to root. Feeding deciduous azaleas with a liquid fertilizer applied at half or one-quarter strength after they have started rooting is required, but for evergreen azaleas, it is not necessary. Both azaleas must be allowed to grow unprotected from freezing temperatures for a full year before you can allow them to do so. While evergreens can be moved to larger pots, deciduous plants can be kept in their current pots over the winter.
Soil Preparation
Azaleas need a well-draining mixture of peat and perlite in order to thrive. A day or two before filling the pot, moisten the soil thoroughly in a separate, clean container and avoid pressing it down to keep the soil light and airy. At the very least, dig down to a depth of 4 to 6 inches.
Organize Your Tools of the Trade
Both deciduous and evergreen azalea cutting methods are the same:
- Choose a stem tip that is between 2 and 5 inches long, is still green, and bends rather than snaps.
- In the morning, when the plant is most hydrated, cut a stem for propagation. Check to see if your plant was properly watered the day before.
- If you had left the bulging node on the plant, it would have formed a new stem.
- Take care not to nick the stem when removing the lower leaves from the bottom third of the stem. You should be left with three leaves at the very top of the stem.
- Scrape the stem’s bottom half an inch or so, then submerge it in water and a rooting hormone.
- The cutting should be planted about one-third of the way into the soil.
- Make sure not to get water on the leaves when watering the cutting.
Tip
You should sterilize your pruning tools with rubbing alcohol or alcohol wipes after each use in order to prevent the spread of disease or pests.
Achieve a Humidity Level
In order to prevent drying out of the cutting, a 100% humidity level is required. The plant can be protected by encasing the pot in a clear plastic bag or by placing an open plastic jug over it. To prevent the cutting leaves from coming into contact with the plastic bag, place a coat hanger frame over the plant. Place the mini-greenhouse in a sunny spot, but not in the sun’s direct beams.
Constant Monitoring and Treatment
Check the soil every week until the cutting roots to make sure it is moist but not soggy. Gently pull the cutting to see if it has taken root; if there is resistance, roots have begun to form. After four to six weeks, cut slits in the plastic frame or remove the cap from the plastic jug to lower the humidity level. At this point, you can begin fertilizing evergreen cuttings and must do so for deciduous ones. Another month is all that is needed to uncover both of the cuttings.
