An early sign of spring is the native Eastern redbud tree’s burst of color (Cercis canadensis). The tree’s reddish-pink buds appear long before the leaves do, giving each of the tree’s smaller branches a kaleidoscope of color. U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 4 through 8 are home to the redbud.
Growth Rate of the American Redbud
When fully grown, the redbud, or “Judas tree,” is a small tree. According to the Missouri Botanical Garden, it typically grows to a height of 20 to 30 feet, though some specimens may grow even higher. This tree grows at a moderate rate, reaching heights of 7 to 10 feet and a spread of 15 to 35 feet by the time it is 5 or 6.
Naturally, the tree develops a divided trunk or multiple trunks that give rise to main branches near the tree’s base in a pleasing manner. An elegant vase-shaped tree with a flat-topped crown is the result.
Foliage and Flowers
Typically, the redbud tree blooms in early April and lasts for two to three weeks. Flowers open from tiny, deep-pink buds that appear on all the tree’s bare branches; some cultivars have white flowers instead.
When young, the heart-shaped leaves of this tree are a reddish purple, but they turn a dark green and then yellow in the fall as they mature. It is only in late summer when redbud trees produce their 3-inch-long flat brown seed pods that become a noticeable feature after the leaves have fallen and remain on the tree all winter.
They’re known for their bright spring blooms in the eastern United States. From white to delicate pink, to shocking electric fuchsia, the flowers’ hues range widely. Magenta buds open to a deep pink on most redbuds, however. Flowers on redbud trees can last up to three weeks under ideal conditions.
Towards the end of the flowering period, bronze heart-shaped foliage appears. When the leaves first emerge, they are a vibrant shade of green that gradually fades to a golden yellow in the autumn. Varieties of the species produce foliage in a variety of colors and hues in addition to the standard green.
Natural distribution of Cercis canadensis extends from New Jersey to Florida, and from Missouri to Missouri. Cultivated redbuds can be found all the way up in Maine and all the way down in California. Grow a regional ecotype for the best results, as northern redbuds may not be able to withstand southern summers or southern winters.
When and Where to Use
Redbuds are stunning on their own or in groups. Dogwood, oak, pine, and elm are great companions for these understory trees because they naturally occur in woodland margins. You can achieve an eye-catching effect by planting redbuds in an area near a large tree’s canopy. One tree in the yard is all you’ve got? Make a statement with a variety that has a weeping habit or brightly coloured foliage.
Planting a Redbud Tree
Redbuds necessitate at least four hours of sunlight per day. A more compact and symmetrical form is achieved by planting in full sun, while a more arching and delicate form is achieved by planting in partial shade. As long as the soil isn’t too wet, these hardy little trees will thrive in any environment. Plant in the fall or spring when temperatures are cooler so that the tree can establish itself without having to rely on a lot of water.
Planting a Seed
Seedlings of the redbud are thriving. Redbud saplings grow incredibly fast. A redbud seedling can reach a height of seven feet in five years if it receives adequate water and nutrition. When they are just four years old, young redbuds will begin to bloom, filling the garden with color.
Scarifying (scratching the seed coat to allow water to enter) and cold treatment are two steps necessary before the seed can be planted. The seeds of redbuds have adapted to survive both animal predation and cold winter weather. These treatments are meant to mimic the natural processes that take place in the body.
To begin, lightly scuff a small section of the seed coat with a nail file or sandpaper. Place the seeds in a sealed plastic bag after wrapping them in a moist paper towel. Before planting, keep the seeds for 60 days in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator.
Many gardeners prefer to let established trees self-seed rather than deal with the hassle of seed treatments. The following year, dig up any stray seedlings and replant them in a new location. In order to reduce the number of seed pods produced and the number of volunteer plants in the landscape, some redbud varieties have been bred to produce limited seed pods. Plants bred for foliage, form, or flower will not likely produce seedlings with the same characteristics as their parents.
Planting from Seeds in a Nursery
If you’re planting a container-grown redbud, remove the circling roots from the outside of the root ball using a spade, planting knife, or hand saw. If roots begin to circle, they will continue to grow in that direction even if the tangle is untangled, according to new research.
Root flares can be found by removing some potting mix from the top of the container (the spot where the first roots emerge from the trunk). It is common practice in nurseries to bury trees somewhat deeply in their pots in order to prevent them from being blown over by the wind. Make sure the root flare is level with the soil surface when you plant your tree.
Dig a hole about 1.5 times the width and depth of the container out of the grass. Digging a hole that is too large or too deep is not recommended. Even if the soil was initially backfilled to plant at the correct depth, trees planted in holes that are too deep tend to sink. Avoid digging a-hole wider than the container, and make sure to use your native soil without mixing in compost or other soil amendments to encourage root growth. To keep weeds at bay and conserve water, water thoroughly and apply a thick layer of mulch.
Newly planted redbuds, like most young trees, require at least one inch of water per week. Pour a small amount of water onto the soil below the dripline of the tree and let it soak in for a few minutes before adding more water. Unless your garden receives at least an inch of rain, water your garden every two or three days during the first growing period. After the first year, you can water only when necessary if there is a drought.
The Redbud Care
Pruning
Remove any branches that are dead, diseased, damaged, or cross. Avoid leaving a stub at the end. Trees can take longer to recover from pruning if stubs are left on the branches. It’s best to cut just above the next branch after following the limb all the way back.
The bark of larger branches has a visible raised “collar.” You can keep your tree’s collar intact by snipping a branch just beyond the collar’s circumference. It is better to leave a small stub rather than cutting into the branch collar when you’re not sure where it is.
Hand pruners can be used to remove branches that are less than half an inch in diameter. Lops should be used to cut away any shoots larger than 3 inches in diameter. When dealing with larger limbs, a hand saw is the tool of choice. You should start with an undercut if you’re using a hand saw in order to avoid damaging the tree’s bark.
Problems with one’s health
Redbuds are more vulnerable to canker and Verticillium wilt if they are under stress, which can be caused by a lack of water, too much water, extreme cold or heat, or an injury (often caused by mowers and string trimmers). Find redbuds that have been produced in your area, keep weed-killing mulch below the tree’s dripline, and keep trees well-watered during their first year of growth.
Look out for redbud branches that have been infected by cankers. Small sunken areas along the stem are the first signs of cankers. Affected branches begin to wilt and eventually die as cankers spread and cut off circulation. Take care to cut at least a few inches below the canker when removing a diseased branch. Any dark discoloration on wood is an indication that it is unhealthy. To prevent the spread of disease, sterilize your pruners after each use.
In the later stages of the growing season, leaf spots are common. Leaf spots may be unsightly, but they pose no danger to the tree’s health. Raking up and removing fallen leaves in the fall is a good way to keep leap spots at bay.
In contrast to other trees, redbuds are not particularly long-lived. After 20 years, even the happiest redbud will begin to decline and will rarely live past 50 years. You may want to consider adding a new generation every decade or so to replace older trees that begin to die off.
Popular Redbud Varieties
For Foliage
Flame Thrower: new foliage begins as bright burgundy, then fades to apricot, then golden yellow, and finally matures to a rich green color.
Floating Clouds: green leaves with white speckles; less vulnerable to sunscald than similar varieties
Forest Pansy: in regions with cool summer nights, the foliage may remain deep purple throughout the season; in other regions, the foliage fades to a darker shade of green as the season progresses.
Hearts of Gold: When the pink blooms start to fade, the foliage turns chartreuse, and plants that are watered regularly and consistently keep their butter yellow color for longer.
In the Interest of Flowers
Appalachian Red: neon pink blooms emerge from deep-colored buds
Dwarf White: eastern redbuds are smaller in stature and grow more slowly than other redbuds in the region.
Flame: rose-pink double blooms with a delicate fragrance
Tennessee Pink: flowers in the abundance of delicate pink hues
Redbuds with Weeping Leaves
Cascading Hearts: The dense, overlapping foliage that covers the drooping branches is resistant to sunscald.
Lavender Twist: in bloom, this plant’s umbrella-shaped, cascading habit is especially beautiful
Ruby Falls: A dramatic accent tree, the purple-leaved weeping redbud makes a dramatic statement.
Variegated Weeper: an attractive weeping habit of green leaves covered in white, creamy spots
For Cold Temperatures
The Rising Sun: With good cold hardiness, the newly emerging orange growth matures to golden yellow.
Royal White: large white blooms that are abundant and cold-tolerant
Under Warm Circumstances
Merlot: Because it is a cross between the heat-tolerant southern native C. canadensis subspecies texensis and the waxy, glossy purple foliage of ‘Forest Pansy,’ it does better in the heat (as are the following varieties)
Oklahoma: vibrant magenta flowers are followed by waxy foliage.
Texas White: The glossy, heart-shaped leaves are followed by an abundance of white blooms.
Traveler: Awe-inspiring glossy leaves and a weeping umbrella shape
Other Species of Interest
Chinese Redbud (C. chinensis): large, flowering shrub with white, pink, and rose-purple varieties available (zones 6 to 9)
Western Redbud (C. occidentalis): Native to the American West, this extremely drought-tolerant species boasts beautiful blooms in fuchsia red (zones 7 to 9) and small, blue-green leaves.
Chain-flowered Redbud (C. racemosa): Wisteria-like flower racemes are produced by this Chinese native (zones 7 to 9)
Judas-tree (C. silquastrum): If you’re looking for redbuds that flower and leaf out at the same time rather than sequentially like many other redbud species, this Mediterranean native is for you.
Site, sun, and soil all work together to create
To ensure that a young tree grows well, Clemson Cooperative Extension recommends that it be planted in a place where it can thrive. It does best in direct sunlight, but it can also thrive in partial shade. To find a good location, look for a spot that is partially shaded during the hottest part of the day, but becomes bright and sunny in winter when nearby trees lose their foliage.
Tolerant of any type of garden soil as long as it is well-drained, the redbud prefers moist, loamy soil. While this tree prefers a dry, well-drained location, you can improve the drainage of your soil by sanding the area before planting.
Preparation for Tree Pruning
Pruning the redbud tree isn’t necessary, but trimming back its young branches can encourage more branching and a bushier shape. If you wait until after the flowers have died, you risk damaging the tree’s new growth.
Garden tools should be disinfected before pruning, according to the University of Florida IFAS Extension. Before making any cuts, dunk or wipe pruning shears or other cutting tools in an ethanol or isopropyl alcohol solution ranging from 70 to 100 percent.
Problems with Redbud Trees
Insect pests, such as treehoppers and scale, can infest it. The tree can be sprayed with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon, to kill treehoppers. Scale insects can be removed from trees by spraying them with horticultural oil, which is readily available at garden centers already diluted.
Canker, a fungal disease, affects the redbud. When cultivating the soil or mowing, avoid injuring the tree’s bark, which provides an entry point for the fungus.
