Hyacinths bloom in the middle of spring, when the rest of the garden is just beginning to awaken. They’ve been dubbed “nature’s perfume” because of how captivating their scent is. They’re easy to grow and come back year after year, like other perennial bulbs. Hyacinths are great for container gardens as well. Hyacinth care instructions can be found here.
Hyacinths and Grape Hyacinths: Facts and Fiction
Flowering hyacinths
Colors such as pinks, whites, cobalt blues, creams, and even a blood-red hue are now available in hyacinths, which were originally pale blue or violet. When planting hyacinth bulbs, each develops a single 8 to 10″-tall bloom stalk. Racemes (clusters) of hyacinth’s intensely fragrant single or double blooms can be free to crowd.
Hyacinths in the grape variety (Muscari)
It doesn’t matter that they’re not related to the actual hyacinths, because they bloom at the same time and demand the same care. This tiny marvel bears bell-shaped, cobalt-blue flowers in compact clusters.
“Hyacinths” are what we’ll be calling both Hyacinthus and Muscari plants on this page.
This early-bloomer looks best in front of a perennial garden, along a walkway, or in mixed borders because it is one of the first flowers to open. Pots and planters are also excellent places to put these beautiful specimens. Hyacinths are also excellent cut flowers, and they look great in bouquets as a result of their arrangement. You may bring the aroma of spring into your home with the help of flowers, which are famous for their scent.
A favorite of the Victorians, hyacinths were meticulously planted in low beds in rows of the same color, creating a lasting scent. In general, hyacinths are supposed to represent liveliness, sport, and rashness, but the connotations are color-dependent.
Please take notice of the following:
Most hyacinths flourish in the temperate regions of the United States between zones 3 and 9. For a minimum of 12 to 14 weeks, they must experience temperatures in the low 40s to mid 45s Fahrenheit. The bulbs must be pre-cooled in the refrigerator before planting them outside if your area does not experience temperatures this low.
Make a Game Plan to Achieve Your Goals
Sun or shade:
Plant your hyacinths in full light for the biggest blossoms and straightest stalks. It doesn’t matter if the bulbs are planted in full sun or partial shade.
Temperatures in the zone of hardiness:
Winter-hardy hyacinths may grow in zones 4-8. Before planting the bulbs in warmer climates, they must be pre-cooled. Learn more about how to grow spring bulbs in warm climates here: How to Grow Spring Bulbs in Warm Climates. Were you unaware of your growing area? Here is the USDA Hardiness Zone map.
Conditions of the soil:
Hyacinths, like most spring-blooming bulbs, should be planted in loose, well-drained soil.
Planting Hyacinths in the Spring
Hyacinth bulbs should be planted in the late autumn, just after the first frost but before the ground freezes, to ensure a long blooming season.
Finding a suitable location to plant a tree or shrub
- Choose a location that gets full sun if you want the greatest blooms and straightest stems. Partial shade is no problem for the bulbs.
- Grow in loose, well-drained soil that is somewhat rich. Hyacinths will decay in moist soil, so keep them out of low spots.
- Work in 2 to 4 inches of compost or bonemeal into the soil before planting.
Hyacinths: How to Plant Them
When to Sow?
Planting hyacinth bulbs in the fall, after the first frost but before the ground freezes, is the best period.
Spacing and Depth
In four to six-inch depths, space hyacinth bulbs five to six inches apart. Alternatively, you can plant the bulbs one at a time or dig a bigger space and plant five or more at once. With their pointed end facing up, place the bulbs in a shallow dish of dirt. Moisture levels are normally adequate thanks to the fall and winter rainfall. If the weather is exceptionally dry, you should only use water.
Tips for Planting:
Hyacinths look their best when planted in informal clusters of 5 to 9 bulbs in home gardens. Do not use straight lines or a single row for a more organic look.
Fill your containers with hyacinth bulbs in the fall, after you remove your summer-season annuals, to create a beautiful and aromatic front porch or patio. Bulbs in containers should be kept in a cool, unheated garage or basement if you live in a zone 6 or colder growing area.
In order to bloom, hyacinth bulbs require a time of chilling. Temperatures of 40-45°F must be maintained for at least 12-14 weeks. The bulbs must be pre-cooled in the refrigerator before planting them outside if your area does not experience temperatures this low.
Hyacinth bulbs can be cultivated inside as well for aesthetic purposes. Plant the bulbs in the fall and keep them chilled for 12-14 weeks at 40-45°F (longer is fine). Bring the pots into a sunny, warm room when you’re ready for spring and watch them flourish.
Hyacinth bulbs should be buried 6″ deep. Grape hyacinth can be spaced 2″ apart. To ensure winter hardiness, plant 1 to 2 inches deeper at the northern limits of their hardiness (USDA Zone 3).
Dig a larger area if you plan to plant more than five bulbs at once. Groups of 5 to 9 hyacinth bulbs look stunning.
- Masses and loose drifts of grape hyacinth look their best.
- Make sure the bulb’s pointed end is towards you as you insert it into the hole.
- Thoroughly water the newly planted seeds after they’ve been covered with soil.
- Mulch the plants with a 1- to 2-inch layer to keep weeds and disease at bay.
- In the event that you’re replanting, water sparingly and then wait until the following year before watering again.
Warning:
The oxalic acid found in hyacinth and daffodil bulbs can irritate the skin when exposed to the elements. Long-term handling of these bulbs necessitates the use of gloves.
Bulbs of Hyacinth Forced to Grow Indoors
In order to have a wintertime display of hyacinth bulbs, the bulbs might be encouraged to develop early. Plant them in soil-based potting mix in containers with drainage holes, leaving just the tips of the stems visible.
For at least 10 weeks, keep the seeds in a dark spot at temperatures above freezing but no more than 45°F (7°C).
Gradually raise light and temperature until shoots are about an inch long.
Avoid soaking the shoots or clogging the soil by watering the plants with care. The soil should be damp but not wet.
Hyacinths that have been forced can be moved to the garden once they have finished blooming, and they will bloom again the following year.
Hyacinths need attention
- Hyacinths should not be submerged in water over long periods of time. Stand water or having “wet feet” bothers them. ONLY water if the soil is 3 inches or drier. It’s time to water if it’s dry at that depth.
- Using a sprinkler or watering from above will only serve to spread disease. A 30-minute watering session is all that is required. Simply place a hose next to the plant and water on a low setting for this period of time. It is possible to cover a huge area with a soaker hose that is turned on low for a few hours.
- No fertilizer is needed because of the organic matter and mulch. Commercial organic fertilizer, on the other hand, can be sprinkled liberally over the soil.
- Plants growing in containers need to be protected from the harsh winter weather by either keeping them covered or transferring them to a dry, protected location.
Pests/Diseases
Gray mold and bulb rot can occur if the bulbs are kept damp for an extended period of time.
Varieties to Consider
Blue Hyacinth Orientalis: This is one of the most beautiful blues in the entire flower kingdom. It’s hard to miss the huge columns of royal blue florets with their pristine white outlines on these award-winning hyacinths.
City of Haarlem: Hyacinth Orientalis: Since the late 1800s, this beautiful heirloom variety has been in wide use. Primrose yellow blossoms mature into a creamy white color.
Gypsy Queen: Hyacinth Orientalis: Hyacinth Gypsy Queen has salmon pink petals with peach and buttery-yellow accents, making it an heirloom.
This is Jan Bos’s Hyacinth Orientalis: Fuschia-pink petals are tightly packed into huge flower heads in this award-winning hyacinth.
Miss Saigon Hyacinthus Orientalis: This beautiful hyacinth has deep purple flowers with starry violet florets. Gorgeous!
Pink Pearl Hyacinth: Hyacinth Orientalis. Pink Pearl’s cotton-candy-sweet flower heads turn heads in spring containers, where it adds a splash of color.
The Armenian Muscari: Small, cobalt-blue blooms adorn this Grape Hyacinth, which is especially lovely when mass-planted.
Predicted Outcomes
Daffodils and hyacinths both bloom in the early to mid-spring. It takes around three weeks for the flowers to blossom once the leaves begin to sprout.
An 8- to 10-inch-tall bloom stem typically emerges from each hyacinth bulb, on average. Additional stems with smaller flower clusters may appear on occasion.
The blooms support each other when planted at the proper distance apart from the bulb. Bamboo cane can be used as support if it is needed.
Outdoors
Remove the blossoms from your hyacinths when they have stopped blossoming, but leave the foliage on the plant. To store energy for next year’s blooms, bulbs require their leaves. The leaves will naturally fall off the trees at the end of spring. To avoid the spread of the fungus, remove the leaves when they become brown.
In most planting zones, hyacinth bulbs can be left in the ground all year round. Digging up bulbs and storing them in a cool, dry place should be done in the fall if you live in a warm location where temperatures do not dip below 60°F. Hyacinths can only blossom during a period of cooler temperatures.
Indoors
You can put your hyacinth bulbs in the garden once they have completed blooming inside. In order to prepare for next year’s blooms, they should not be stored immediately after they have finished flowering.
Hyacinth bulbs can be taken indoors once their foliage dies down outside and kept cool, dark, and dry until the fall or winter.
Once They’ve Sprung, Maintaining Hyacinths
Most gardeners consider hyacinths to be annuals. First-year tulip blooms are always the largest and most stunning, just like tulips. You’ll always get the finest results if you plant new bulbs each fall. After the bulbs have finished blooming, there is no need to wait for the foliage of the bulbs to die down. The bulbs can be dug out and thrown away once the blossoms have faded.
To keep the bulbs in for another year, you can expect the flowers to look more casual, with shorter stems and fewer florets. Remove the first-year blossom as soon as it has faded and cut the stem short for the best results. Allow the plant’s leaves to develop until they turn yellow before fertilizing. Leave the bulbs in the ground after removing the leaves. After the foliage has faded, you can dig out the bulbs, store them somewhere cold and dry, and replant them in the fall.
Common Questions
What Is the Poisonousness of Hyacinth Bulbs?
Hyacinth bulbs are, in fact, toxic to animals. A chemical found in hyacinths and daffodils may induce gastrointestinal and respiratory problems, as well as skin irritation, in people who are allergic. The bulbs of the hyacinth plant contain the greatest calcium oxalate, but it can also be found in the plant’s foliage and flowers. Always wear gloves when handling hyacinth bulbs for an extended amount of time to protect yourself and your pets.
There is a small silver lining to the hyacinth’s toxicity, in that squirrels and groundhogs are less likely to consume your bulbs!
Is the Hyacinth Season Over?
There’s a lot of room for debate here. Hyacinths only bloom once a year (in the spring), but if given the correct care, they will happily bloom again the following year. Perennials, they are.
